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Fishermen at the Van Thuy Tu Whale Temple in Phan Thiet during the Cau Ngu Festival
Thap Pho Dam, the forgotten Cham Towers of Northeastern Binh Thuan Province. Read more about Cham culture and history in Binh Thuan Province HERE.

Ancient Tombs Discovered...
Desecrated and Robbed

Ancient Tombs of Phan Ri

23.06.09 In a recent trip to Phan Ri, in central Binh Thuan Province, we discovered an ancient graveyard with a number of bizarre tombs. Solid monoliths, approximately 1.2m X 1.2m X 2.4m were pilled haphazardly among the dunes, along with other curious tomb markers shaped like crouched tigers and decorated in floral patterns.

Ancient Tombs of Phan Ri

The shrimp farmers nearby told us they were aware that the tombs were indeed very old, but had moved most of the monuments into piles, in order to clear land and dig ponds for shrimp. They said a man from Quang Ngai Province had visited the site several times to remove artifacts and valuables from the tombs. It's sad that local people have so little regard--not only for burial grounds, but for the cultural treasures of their own local history. At present, nothing is being done to protect the relics, or determine the time period and ethnic group that they belong to.

Ancient Tombs of Phan Ri

Images from Nui Ong Nature Reserve

Fishermen at the Van Thuy Tu Whale Temple in Phan Thiet during the Cau Ngu Festival
Giant insect life from the rainforests of Nui Ong Nature Reserve, northwest Binh Thuan Province. View more photos from the forest
in our Mui Ne Blog.

Binh Thuan's Nature Reserves Being Decimated

Logging in Nui Ong

Logging tracks in Nui Ong10.06.09 We recently made a trip to Nui Ong Nature Reserve, about 2.5 hrs northwest of Phan Thiet. While the insects, birdlife, flowers and other flora and fauna were amazing (see them in our blog), it was still very sad to see how much this Nature Reserve is being actively decimated by what appears to be illegal logging and poaching. We followed logging trails (right) to find trucks hauling out truckloads of bamboo (top) for construction. The forest was full of hunting camps (below) where locals stayed while they poached and apparently smoked meat from wildlife they caught. Large tracts of land were cleared by the local Rai minority to turn into farmland. It's a wonder whether anything will be left of the forest at all in the next 5-10 years.

Hunting Camps in Nui Ong

Tragedy on the Ca Ty River

08.06.09 According to local sources, six teens lept from the Le Hong Phong Bridge in downtown Phan Thiet this afternoon as part of a suicide pact. Apparently 3 of the six were killed right away. City residents crowded around the bridge and riverside for several hours during and after active recovery efforts. It apparently all occured in clear view. It's unknown if anyone even tried to stop the youths. The reasons for their jump are also unclear. Some have speculated failed university entrance exams or petty teenage heartbreak with boyfriends and girlfriends.

Mui Ne's First Mini Golf Course Opens

Mini Golf at the Docking Bar

Golf at the Docking Bar06.06.09 Mui Ne's first mini golf course opened today at the new Docking Bar, in partnership with the Forest Restaurant and the Forester Spa. The course opened with a tournament this morning to be followed by a party this evening. The course may be the first in the country. The design of the course is simple--it's laid out like a terraced rice paddie--and elegant, set between a variety of traditional minority stilt houses, thatched-roof mud-grass homes and a lush tropical garden with fish pond. Mini golf is a welcome addition to Mui Ne's growing list of daytime activities and night-time entertainment.

The Docking Bar Mini Golf
7 Nguyen Dinh Chieu
(062) 384-7589
www.forestrestaurant.com

Mui Ne's First Cooking Class

Mui Ne Cooking School at Sunshine Beach
Located at Sunshine Beach Resort
82 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St.
Tel: (091) 665-5241

Second Day of
Cau Ngu Festival 2009 Phan Thiet

Fishermen at the Van Thuy Tu Whale Temple in Phan Thiet during the Cau Ngu Festival
Fishermen at the Van Thuy Tu Whale Temple in Phan Thiet during the Cau Ngu Festival. View more photos from the festival
in our Mui Ne Blog.


14.05.09 This morning at around 8am, boats decorated ceremonially in colorful flags and banners arrived from Vung Tau carrying fishermen in full festival costumes. When they landed they were joined by students and a local troupe of dragon and lion dancers. The group then led a parade along the Ca Ty River in Phan Thiet, ending around 10am at the Van Thuy Tu Temple for whale worship, near the harbor. Attendence for the parade was light, largely due to the poor advertising of the event.

A dragon boat race may be occuring in the afternoon, though this has been difficult to confirm. A lantern release is also planned for the Ca Ty River tonight, perhaps around 6:30pm. Performance of traditional vietnamese opera may ensue at Van Thuy Tu afterwards.

Cau Ngu Festival 2009 Phan Thiet

Dragon Boat Racing on the Ca Ty River in Phan Thiet during the Cau Ngu Festival

13.05.09 Today Phan Thiet City announced the upcoming Cau Ngu Festival, a local tradition grounded in the whale-worshipping cult of coastal fisherman. Unfortunately the festival was already underway this morning as banners announcing the festival (in Vietnamese-language only) were hung in Phan Thiet, and not Mui Ne (the center of tourism). However, we managed to find the single poster listing the schedule of events, and have done our best to translate it and present the information here:

Students in the parade during the Cau Ngu Festival in Phan Thiet

Wednesday, 13 May: Night Market along the harbor, with dance show and opening ceremonies.

Thursday, 14 May:

Morning: 8am-10am Parade around the Ca Ty River, ending at Van Thuy Tu Whale Temple.
Afternoon: 2:30ish Dragon Boat Race Practice.
Evening: Cheo Ba Trao (costumed, traditional opera) at the Harbor and Festival Night Market.

Friday, 15 May:

Afternoon: Dragon Boat Race Practice.
Evening: Hat Boi & Cai Luong (traditional, costumed opera) at whale temples, and contemporary music performances on stage.

Saturday, 16 May:

Costumed Performer in the parade for the Cau ngu Festival, Phan Thiet
Daytime: dragon-boat races.
Evening: patriotic and communist anthems

Sunday, 17 May: Traditional games and fisherman’s parade around Phan Thiet Market and riverside.

Monday, 18 & 19 May: Ho Chi Minh’s Birthday with Communist celebrations at the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

2009 Liberty Cup Results Are In

10.05.09 Jibes. For the second year, during the long national holiday week end, 14 relaxed races were held at Jibe’s Beach Club on stunning Mui Ne Bay.

Rain and light wind discouraged some to enter the event, but the 6 international teamscompeting in this Fun event were very competitive and eager to win the trophy. The all- girl team finished 3rd overall but won for their enthusiams and smiles, ( Julia UK, Satoko Japan, Lucy Australia).

During day 1 and 2 fourteen races were held, leaving Mark’s Team and Olivier and his crew with 3 wins each. The pressure was on for those 2 friends on the ground. On Sunday morning, having recovered from the party at Jibe’s Beach Club the night before, both teams put extra care in getting their boats ready for the final race. Mark Walton and his crew won the race and the Liberty Cup over Olivier Laforest; after a bad start Mark had a good speed upwind that enabled him to over take Olivier and win the last leg with 2 minutes lead. Generally, the level of the teams has risen compared to the 1st edition, resulting in more entertaining starts and races to the spectators that were not bothered by the sunless weather. Genekers were successfully used in most of the legs.

Once again, the organisation was perfect with Race officer Janot Prat who had set up a short but challenging course well in view of the weekenders on the beach The racing rules were simple and efficient, perfect for fun racing . Thanks to Jibe’s Beach Club’s team for getting the 2 boats ready and organizing the BBQ beach party on the Saturday,

The 3rd edition of the Liberty Cup will be on the 30th April and 1st May 2010 at the same location, hopefully with a better weather and a larger field. Jibe’s Beach Club is working on a new event, the concept will be teams of two on the golf course and the same teams on the sailing boats, then scores will be combined, it promise to be a very fun event, date will be finalized at a later stage.

Over the last 12 months there has been more sailing event organised in Vietnam it definitly shows the interest in sailing on the South China Sea and confirm the raise of interest in water sport in the country.

Final Results:

1st: Marc Walton (Fr) & Jerome Besnard (Fr)
2nd: Olivier Laforest (Ca)
3rd: Julia Shaw(HK), Satoko Nakamura(Ja) and Lucy Odillo Maher(Aust)

View Photos Here

Le Fruit Triathlon
PDF Downloads: Poster . Kids Event (EN)/(VN) . Map

Docking Bar Opens for May Day Weekend

Docking Bar

01.05.09 The Docking Bar, Mui Ne's newest nightlife attraction, has opened just in time for the long holiday weekend. The atmospheric bar is located between the Forest Restaurant, Forester Spa, and a new mini golf course also set to open next month.

Docking Bar

Docking Bar has a unique design, blending exotic wooden sculpture with a traditional mud-home, and tieing it all together with colorful accented designs painted floor to ceiling. The inside has the feeling of a funky grotto with plenty of dancefloor room, and cozy nooks for conversation. Outdoors is a family atmosphere with stylish wooden picnic tables. A large range of drinks are availabe--as well as some great food offerings, including bacon cheese burgers, fish and chips, and fried cheese.

Docking Bar

This Weekend Jibes Liberation Cup

Jibes Liberation Cup

Start Time: Thursday, April 30, 2009 at 8:00am
End Time: Sunday, May 3, 2009 at 2:00am
Location: Jibe's Beach Club
Street: 90 Nguyen Dinh Chieu

3 days of match racing in Mui Ne bay,on the 30th April we will have a free day of practice and clinics for all team registered, 1st and 2nd May will be racing, 2nd evening will be award ceremony and beach BBQ party, boats will be free use for cometitors on Sunday.

Local Entrepreneur Honored

17.04.09 Le Thi Minh Tam, owner of the Seahorse Resort, recently received special recognition from the Vietnam government for her special achievements. Ms. Tam, a native of Phan Thiet, moved to Saigon when she was young and married the renowned surgeon and congressman from district 11, HCHC, Dr. Tran Dong-A. She soon opened up a shop making doll clothing. Her fine products were renowned for their quality and were in great demand both within Vietnam and internationally.

Ms. Tam desired to return to her roots in Phan Thiet, and when tourism began to pick up in Mui Ne, she decided to build Sea Horse. Everything at the resort received her special touch and undivided attention, from the landscaping to the furnishings and decorations in each villa. After the wide success of Seahorse, she began to look to other possibilities, and is currently developing Champa Resort, near Victoria.

On the recent International Woman’s Day, Ms. Le Thi Minh Tam was honored by the Vietnam government with the Golden Rose Award, given to a select group of women each year for their extraordinary achievements in their career and charity in the community.

Tourist Bus Plunges Off Cliff Between Mui Ne and Da Lat, Killing 10 People

Russian Tourist Bus Crash near Da Lat, Vietnam
Tragic Bus Crash at Dai Ninh, Binh Thuan Province

14.03.09 Phan Thiet, Vietnam. A speeding bus fell off a cliff near Dai Ninh in Binh Thuan Province early Friday evening, killing at least ten people, including nine Russian tourists and their translators.

Eight people were killed in the fall, and two reportedly died later in the hospital. Fourteen others remain hospitalized, some in critical condition. Among the survivors are several young Russian students and the driver.

Bus Crash between Mui Ne and Da Lat Vietnam kills 10 people including 9 Russian Tourists
The bus from the crash,
now stored across from the Phan Thiet Fire Station

The bus left 5am Friday morning from the coastal resort town of Mui Ne, heading to the mountain resort town of Da Lat for a day trip. Both locations are popular tourist destinations. On the return trip, around 7pm, the bus plunged some 100 meters over a cliff on the windy mountain road. The survivors were rescued around 11pm and first taken to Lam Dong Hospital near Da lat, but later transfered to Benh Vien Cho Ray in Ho Chi Minh City.

The Viet from Dai Ninh
The View from Dai Ninh

There were at least 22 people on the 39-seat bus owned by the An-Lanta Tourist Company, most of whom were Russian tourists. Apparently this was the driver's first time driving the dangerous stretch between Mui Ne and Da Lat thorough the mountains of the central Highlands. His inexperience on the windy road was likely to be a contributing factor in the deadly accident.

Theatre in Mui Ne at Joe’s Café and Snow

Miss-ed Saigon, Live Theater at Joe's Art Cafe and Snow in Mui Ne

Saigon Players
See more photos from the show in Our Blog

Saigon Players is an Amateur Theatre Group From Saigon. The Group was founded almost six years ago from a core group, mostly expat to create a venue for theatre lovers to meet and exercise the art and share it with those of little experience. The current performance, “Missed Saigon is Back” is the latest in a series of Missed Saigon Performances put on over the past four years at bars, restaurants and schools in Ho Chi Minh City. The show comprises scenes making fun of expat life in Vietnam while showing the greatest respect for our hosts and host country. The performance is about 40 minutes long, black box theatre and as usual, all funds go to charity., this time helping out the Sesame School for Hospitality and their kids. Ticket prices are 50,000 ea at the door.

Vietnam's Top Show Wraps It Up in Mui Ne

Co Gai Xau Xi or Vietnam Ugly Betty's  Ngoc Hiep

01.03.09 Last night, the crew of Vietnam's version of the US television hit, Ugly Betty (here known as "Co Gai Xau Xi" or "Ugly Lady"), held a wrap-up party at Mui Ne's own Forest Restaurant. A few cast members of the wildly popular show were present, including the star, Ngoc Hiep. Visit the Mui Ne Blog to see more photos from the evening.

10th Annual Vietnam Fun Cup

22.02.09 The 10th Annual Vietnam Fun Cup concluded Saturday, March 21, with Chris Pressler as winner. The competition included 34 competators, with 8 races for men and 2 for women. Sandra Wolf earned a victory in the women's competition. The windsurfing and kiteboarding charity event is hosted by Jibes and Full Moon Resort. Results were as follows:

    Men
  1. Chris Pressler, Austria
  2. Nguyen Thanh Dong, Vietnam
  3. Nguyen Thanh Tam, Vietnam
  4. Remi Vila, France
  5. Nguyen Ngoc Bong, Vietnam
    Women
  1. Sandra Wolf, Germany
  2. Sylvie Feuerle, France
  3. Kerstin Reiger, Austria
  4. Lucy Maher, Australia
  5. Deborah Khoo, Singapore

Tet 2009 is as Festive as Ever in Phan Thiet

Lion Dancers at the Tet opening of the Prudential Office in Phan Thiet Market
Lion Dancers, Martial Artists and Traditional Musicians at the Tet opening of Prudential in Phan Thiet Market. Visit The Fish Egg Tree Blog for more photos of Tet in Phan Thiet.
Martial Artist at the Tet opening of the Prudential Office in Phan Thiet Market

Petrol Station Still Cheating Foreigners

Petrolimex Mui Ne

30.12.08 Earlier this year we reported that attendants at the Petrolimex on the hill in Phu Hai, between Phan Thiet and Ham Tien (Mui Ne Beach), was systematically cheating foreigners (going all the way back to it's opening more than 4 years ago). Attendants routinely fail to set the meter to zero when they service foreign customers (so as to confuse them on the amount of gas they are receiving) and then fail to give the correct change (typically in amounts of 10,000-50,000VND, but larger amounts are possible). As complaints continue to be voiced, we recommend visitors avoid the Petrolimex and instead head to one of the 2 gas stations down the hill in Phan Thiet, just past the Phu Hai bridge. Both have a good reputation for treating customers (local and foreign) fairly, although customers should always watch meters and count their change judiciously at any petrol station.

If you feel you've been cheated by any businesses in Mui Ne or Phan Thiet, we invite you to send us your complaints so that we can look into the matter.

Christmas Eve Murder At Sleazy Local Venue

25.12.08 Wednesday night (Christmas Eve) eight local Vietnamese men attacked and killed another local man at Hollywood Nights, a nightclub in Ham Tien (Mui Ne Beach) long known as a haven for prostitution and other illegal activity. In the process of the attack, another local man was reportedly injured and remains at home; expected to die from brain trauma. Witnesses say a foreign tourist was cut by a knife when he attempted to break up the fight. Although the attackers wielded at least one large knife during the fight, the man who died was apparently bludgeoned to death. According to locals, a second, unrelated fight broke out in Mui Ne Village the same evening, leaving another Vietnamese man dead with knife wounds.

While police had a strong presence in Phan Thiet on Christmas Eve, there was no visible presence in Ham Tien (Mui Ne Beach) despite numerous parties with abundant alcohol, extending late into the night. Local police have been pre-occupied recently with an initiative to confiscate motorbikes from tourists driving without a Vietnam-issued license. Resorts and local businesses have also noted the burdensome, compulsive fundraising efforts of law enforcement, typical of holiday seasons. These activities appear to be a distraction from more pressing communities needs, like keeping the peace.

Unfortunately these deadly altercations are not the only incidents of violence this week. A series of skirmishes broke out at another local bar frequented by foreign tourists, after five drunken foreigners sexually assaulted several other expat women. In the largest fight, police were called but arrived an hour later and reportedly refused to intervene.

Foreign Drivers Continue
to Face Problems in Mui Ne

09.12.08 In a stunning twist to the recent controversy of Phan Thiet Police confiscating motorbikes from Foreigners without Vietnam-issued drivers licenses, authorities today announced a special "Road Clean-up Day in Mui Ne." The publicized purpose of the initiative was to rid Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street in Ham Tien Ward (Mui Ne Beach) of foreign drivers. MuiNeBeach.net has already confirmed that the initiative has gone a step further, with at least one foreigner pulled over today, and their motorbike confiscated, despite posessing all the legal paperwork, as well as numerous foreigners pulled over for driving without the Vietnam-issued license.

It is unclear why the police have chosen to enact such hostile tactics towards tourists, particularly in a very important week for tourism in Phan Thiet City. The 3rd Annual National Singer's Day for Charity (Singers with Hands Across the World) is set to kick off with a concert involving up to 200 top singers and performers in Phan Thiet on Wednesday, 10 December. Sea Links Golf Club is also hosting a major media event on Friday with an open house for customers and golf tournament. Both events are intended to draw large numbers of tourists and expats from Saigon. Many of them will certainly intend to drive while visiting the area.

According to Vietnamese law, all foreigners must have a Vietnam-issued drivers license to drive in Vietnam. The process is both confusing and time consuming--many tourists give up in frustration before completing the application. Although Vietnam is listed as a signatory to the agreement on international drivers licenses, it does not honor the agreement. However, the law is rarely enforced--and reported cases of periodic enforcement have been restricted to Mui Ne.

Police Pushing Tourist Drivers
Out of Mui Ne

Police detaining foreigners in Mui Ne. Vietnamese motorbike drivers coordinate with police to profit from the roadblocks by transporting stranded tourists.

22.11.08 This week Phan Thiet police launched a campaign of roadblocks to detain foreigners and confiscate motorbikes driven by foreign tourists without a Vietnam-issued driver’s license.

Vietnam’s driving laws have been anything but clear to foreign tourists. Vietnam is listed as a co-signer of the treaty on International Driver’s licenses. However, Vietnam does not honor the agreement. Vietnam law instead insists that all drivers must have a Vietnam-issued driver’s license, but the process is not plainly laid out, and can require numerous trips to embassies, police offices, and payment of a variety of fees.

In practice however, cities do not enforce the law, acknowledging the damage the restriction would do to tourism, and the unwanted paperwork that enforcing the law would cause. However, Phan Thiet police have been the sole law-enforcement agency in the country to periodically enforce the rule.

Police confiscate motorbikes in Mui Ne
A tourist struggles to negotiate with Phan Thiet Police in Mui Ne over the confiscation of their motorbike.

The roadblocks have been established in central Ham Tien in front of Phuoc Thien Pagoda, and on the west end of the beach near Allezboo Resort. The purpose of the roadblocks is solely to detain foreigners. Unfortunately drunk drivers and large trucks speeding on the wrong side of the road seem to pass freely.

Most tourists visiting Mui Ne now prefer to drive themselves to see sights. Jeep tours are on a sharp decline. Numerous tour companies now rely primarily on motorbike rentals for their revenue Many tourists have complained that if they cannot freely explore the area on their own, that they would prefer not to even visit Mui Ne.

Watching the police load motorbikes into their truck remarked “Why should I bother to come to Mui Ne? I can drive around Nha Trang myself without all this hassle. How do you expect us to find your bars and restaurants if the police won’t let us drive around?”

Cultural Treasure Lost

Binh Thuan Shipwreck by Mike Flecker, Maritime Explorations

05.11.08 An official at the Binh Thuan Museum (a collection of largely-empty office buildings on the river-front in downtown Phan Thiet) last week conceded what many had long suspected—namely that nearly all the salvaged artifacts from the famous “Binh Thuan Shipwreck,” which were given to the government museum for display, had been sold by local officials and the money entirely spent. Likewise, money given to the government specifically for the construction of a new museum to house the recovered artifacts had been spent on other items, and none of the funds now remained.

The Binh Thuan Ship Wreck was discovered by fishermen 40 miles south of the coast of Binh Thuan Province at a depth of 40m. Local fishermen plundered significant portions of the wreck while the government deliberated on official approval of an excavation on the wreck. Maritime Explorations excavated the wreck in conjunction with the Vietnam Ministry of Culture, Vietnam Salvage Corporation (Visal), and the Binh Thuan People's Committee.

Binh Thuan Shipwreck by Mike Flecker, Maritime ExplorationsThe boat was a Chinese junk, 7m wide, 24m long, and divided into 25 narrow compartments. The boat likely belonged to the merchant, I Sin Ho, who was transporting a cargo of silk, porcelain and other Chinese goods from China to Johore for the Dutch, when his ship sank in 1608. The cargo found was comprised of Zhangzhou (Swatow) porcelain and cast-iron pans. This was the first dedicated cargo of Zhangzhou porcelain ever found. There were also fine blue and white ceramics in a variety of shapes. Non-ceramic artifacts included locks, chopsticks, a set of scales, and copper dishes and bowls.

The Vietnamese Government kept all the unique artifacts (including the most valuable and well-preserved items), along with four fully representative sets, designated to remain in Vietnam for ongoing study and museum display. The remaining artifacts (all multiple duplicates), were sold after full documentation. A large part of the profits were earmarked for the construction of a new museum in Phan Thiet to house the remaining wreck finds and other cultural objects. Christie's Australia hosted an auction in Melbourne on the 1st and 2nd of March 2004, in which all lots were sold for a total of A$2 million.

Binh Thuan Shipwreck by Mike Flecker, Maritime ExplorationsAn official at the museum said that the only items now remaining from the shipwreck included some sets of chopsticks and damaged pottery—items deemed to have little or no retail value--and were kept in a locked storage room where they could not be viewed by the public. This unfortunate outcome was carried out solely by local government officials, despite the best efforts of Maritime Explorations to ensure that the artifacts would be preserved for the public in a fully-financed new museum. Without any remain funds to build the new museum, it is unlikely that even these scraps will ever come into public view.

All 3 Photos by Mike Flecker, Maritime Explorations.

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